Picking a barrel of Knob Creek: A photo essay

Have you ever selected your own barrel of bourbon? I have a few times. Well, me along with a dozen or two of my drinking buddies. I’m a member of the Georgia Bourbon Society, a group that selects a barrel or two of bourbon for ourselves once or twice a year. No, you don’t have to be from Georgia to be a member, obviously. It’s just a group of friends from all over the country, organized by two men who live in Atlanta.

There are dozens of groups like the GBS around the country. Some are ad hoc groups, some are loose affiliations like us and some are organized clubs with rules and membership rolls and whatnot. This sort of thing has been going on for a long time, but it has become much more common as bourbon’s popularity has taken off.

GBS has made the rounds over the years. Our first selections were of Elijah Craig and Elijah Craig barrel strength. Our next one was Elmer T. Lee, then two barrels from Four Roses, then a Russell’s Reserve Single Barrel from Wild Turkey. Last weekend we selected a barrel of Knob Creek Single Barrel at Jim Beam. It was a great experience.

We gathered at the Jim Beam American Stillhouse (aka the gift shop) in Clermont, Kentucky at 10 AM that morning. First on the agenda was, of course, the tasting and selection. We gathered in Warehouse K amongst the barrels.

Photo by R. Turner
Photo by R. Turner 

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The view

There were tables set up with four glasses each, one with a red band, one with a green band, one with a blue band and one with no band at all. A glass water bottle was on each table too. Three barrels had been rolled out for us to choose from, each one corresponding to a colored band. Red was first, green second and blue third. We sniffed and tasted all three in turn and then over again and then took a secret ballot. Just one vote separated the first and second places so we considered a taste off, but in the end we just went with the first place finisher. I thought it tasted and smelled like snickerdoodle cookies. It was a very good barrel of bourbon.

The winning barrel was then rolled on to a truck and driven over to the distillery for dumping. Some of our members had the privilege of aiding in the dumping process. We then all watched and waited to see how much bourbon was going to come out of that barrel. About 33 gallons is the answer (that’s about 20 gallons lost to evaporation over the ten years of the bourbon’s life).

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Drilling out the bung
Drilling out the bung
Dumping
Dumping

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The bucket of bung parts

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After a delicious complimentary bbq lunch, we got a full tour and then the unheard of (at least unheard of by me) experience of actually watching our barrel get bottled and packed. We were able to follow the bottles all the way down the line to the end, where we got to pack them into cases ourselves.

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Filling the bottles.
Capping
Capping
Labeling
Labeling
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Packing

We then had the opportunity to buy a bottle then and there through the gift shop, at a higher price, of course. There were five bottles left over after all the cases were filled, so five of us stepped up to buy one. My friend Amy, also a GBS member, had requested a bottle so the one I purchased was on her behalf. Those of us buying bottles then had the opportunity to apply the wax seal to the bottles ourselves! Waxing is a multi-step process. The following four pictures were taken by S. Ivancic.

Dip
Dip
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Twist
Stick the neck into the mold and push the button to seal
Stick the neck into the mold and push the button to seal.
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Finally, stick your thumb into the soft wax at the top just for fun.

The whole experience was wonderful and far exceeded my expectations. Some of the participants thought it was all a little too long but I loved every minute of it. We picked a damned good barrel too. I can’t wait until I get my bottles!

If you have an opportunity to select a barrel from Beam, I highly recommend it.

Market Red

Maker: St. Julian, Paw Paw, Michigan, USA. Made for Westborn Market, Dearborn, Michigan, USAwpid-2015-09-23-13.47.59.jpg.jpeg

Grapes: Unknown “proprietary blend”.

Place of origin: Michigan

Vintage: NV

ABV: 12%

Price: $8 (only available at Westborn Market supermarkets)

Appearance: Dark burgundy.

Nose: Dried fig, plum, toasted oak, smoked ham.

Palate: Fruity and tart with a big dose of oak. Blunt with no integration.

Finish: A little chewy, then inky.

Parting words: Market Red is a ham fisted, hybrid-heavy blend made by St. Julian for the Metro Detroit supermarket chain noted for its fine produce, emphasis on locally made products and its chaotic store layouts. They also have their own labeled products that seem to be little more than other Michigan brands with a Westborn label slapped on (e.g. their potato chips). Market Red and its white sibling seem to be relabeled versions of St. Julian’s Founders Red and White respectively, although those are labeled as Lake Michigan Shore, not simply Michigan so I could be wrong about that.

I reviewed  Market White a couple weeks ago and I thought it was OK. This is not even as good as that. There’s not much going on here, and what there is isn’t interesting. $8 is cheap, but one can still do better for the money. If one wants to stick with St. Julian, I would recommend the Simply Red* as an alternative. Better yet, chip in a few extra bucks for Chateau Chantal’s Naughty Red or Nice Red. Or if one wants to stay under $10, go across the street from the Berkley Westborn Market and get something much better at Trader Joe’s for the same price or less.

*I am fully prepared to have egg on my face if Market Red is identical to Simply Red

Market Red is not recommended.

All Day IPA

Maker: Founders, Grand Rapids, Michigan, USA

Style: Session IPA

ABV: 4.7%

Note: No photo due to phone camera failure.

Appearance: Medium gold with a big foamy head.

Nose: Mild floral hops.

Palate: Spicy hops with a sweet malt background. Bitter, but not obnoxious.

Finish: Mild but with plenty of hoppy bitterness.

Parting words: As always, Founders delivers. All Day IPA delivers plenty of hoppy IPA punch at a low ABV for “all day” enjoyment. This beer has become my go-to beer for parties, lunches at home or having beer drinking friends over. It’s available on tap, in bottles and even in a 15 pack of cans (my preference). It’s also available at just about every party store, grocery store and gas station in these parts. For simple hoppy drinking, All Day IPA can’t be beat. Highly recommended.

Crown Royal Reserve

Distiller: Crown Royal, Gimili, Manitoba, Canada (Diageo)wpid-2015-09-11-20.50.45.jpg.jpeg

Age: NAS (supposedly older than the standard Crown Royal)

ABV: 40%

Michigan state minimum: $44

Appearance: Dark copper (likely colored)

Nose: Alcohol, spoiled onion, discount deli ham, ghost pepper.

Palate: Full bodied and mildly sweet. Not much going on other than sweetness and a touch of caramel. No oak anywhere in sight.

Finish: Light anise flavor followed by mild heat.

Mixed: Due to the limited amount I had available of this whisky, I didn’t try Crown Royal Reserve mixed, except for with some soda. It was nearly impossible to taste in that application, but that’s probably for the best.

Parting words: I reviewed the standard Crown Royal a couple years ago and I didn’t like it. I was hoping the reserve would be better. I imagined something more rounded and refined. That is not what I got. Crown Royal Reserve is even worse than Crown Royal. The nose has gone from disgusting to putrid and CR’s grainy character has been replaced with a total lack of any sort of character beyond the garbage (literally) nose. The only pleasant part of drinking this was the delicate, but flavorful finish, but it doesn’t even come close to being worth the silly price.

In the interest of being helpful, here’s a list of “reserve” or equivalent Canadian blends that are cheaper and better than CRR: Black Velvet Reserve ($13), Canadian Club Reserve ($18), Forty Creek Copper Pot Reserve ($27), and Gibson’s 12 ($28). Not to mention Alberta Dark Batch ($27), CC Sherry Cask ($22), Collingwood ($30) and Tangle Ridge ($18).

Don’t buy this. Crown Royal Reserve is not recommended.

Market White

Maker: St. Julian, Paw Paw, Michigan, USA.wpid-2015-09-09-19.11.10.jpg.jpeg

Made for Westborn Market, Dearborn, Michigan, USA

Grapes: Unknown “proprietary blend”.

Place of origin: Michigan

ABV: 9%

Price: $8 (only available at Westborn Market supermarkets)

Appearance: Pale straw.

Nose: Grapefruit, pineapple, mandarin orange, lemon thyme.

Palate: Medium sweet and medium bodied. Orange juice from concentrate, melon, white grape juice, pinch of sage.

Finish: Sweet and long lasting with herbs on the back end.

Parting words: The bottle describes this wine as a “white table wine” and it delivers on that promise. It tastes like there’s some Riesling and Vidal Blanc in the mix along with a few others. Market White is good with food and fairly refreshing on its own. It’s more complex than I expected, but too sweet to be a go-to white table wine for me. The price is very good, though. If you like your white table wine a little on the sweet side, then check this one out. Market White is recommended.

Clear Creek Eau de Vie de Pomme, 8 y/o

Maker: Clear Creek, Portland, Oregon, USAwpid-2015-08-13-19.38.45.jpg.jpeg

Style: Aged apple brandy.

ABV: 40%

Price: $45 (Binny’s)

Appearance: Bright copper with a big clingy necklace around the edge of the snifter.

Nose: Alcohol, homemade applesauce, coriander, cardamom, ginger.

Palate: Mildly spicy and full bodied. Alcohol, apple juice, cassia, toasted oak

Finish: Hot. Chipotle, raspberry syrup, ginger, celery.

Parting words: American micro-distillers are making a lot of garbage right now. Most of that is wretched-tasting whiskey. That’s because bourbon and rye are very popular right now, so I can’t exactly blame them for cashing in. Unfortunately too many are focused on whiskey and ignoring other spirits besides the gin and vodka cash cows. What America needs is not another underaged and overpriced whiskey or vodka made from something someone picked up at the farmer’s market. What America needs is more rum, brandy, and especially apple brandy!

Steve McCarthy, founder of Clear Creek, recognized this thirty years ago (decades before distilling became a fad) and made apple brandy one of the pillars of his portfolio. This gem is the result. They have a range of fruit brandies including pear, raspberry, cherry, two plum brandies and a 2 y/o apple brandy and an “apple in the bottle” brandy.

This apple brandy is said to be made in the traditional methods of Calvados from Oregon Golden Delicious apples. I can’t speak to how closely its manufacture resembles that of Calvados, but it might be the best American apple brandy on the market. It’s definitely one of the best I’ve ever had. Black Star Farms’ 10 y/o is the only one I’ve had that comes close, but that’s $75 and only available at the tasting room. This might also be the best spirit available at this price. Clear Creek Eau de Vie de Pomme, 8 y/o is highly recommended.

Bernheim Originial (7 y/o)

Maker: Heaven Hill, Bardstown/Louisville, Kentucky, USAwpid-20150904_174616.jpg

Style: Straight Wheat Whiskey (made with at least 51% wheat)

Proof: 90 (45% ABV)

Michigan state minimum: $30

Appearance: Caramel with necklacing and thin legs.

Nose: Alcohol, walnut, whole wheat biscuits.

Palate: Surprisingly hot. Cinnamon, crackers, caramel, pinch of tarragon.

Finish: Butterscotch, amaretto, alcohol, oak.

Mixed: Very good in a Manhattan and an old fashioned. Didn’t try it in anything else.

Parting words: Bernheim Original is a rare thing in two ways. First, it’s the only straight wheat whiskey on store shelves made by a major American whiskey distiller. Second, after years of being NAS, it was reintroduced with an age statement this year! This is unheard of these days when tightening supplies are causing age statements to drop like passes in the hands of rookie wide receivers.

I reviewed the NAS back in 2012. Judging by my old tasting notes, this age stated version is richer and beefier than the old version. It’s no longer a lightweight and has a solid caramel backbone to support the unusual baked goods and cinnamon flavors. This isn’t a novelty anymore, this is seriously good whiskey. With micro-distilled wheat whiskeys popping up all over the place, Bernheim Original has taken its rightful place as the benchmark of the category. The price hasn’t changed much, if it all, since 2012. Even more than three years ago, Bernheim Original is recommended.