Maker: Nathaniel Rose, Suttons Bay, Michigan, USA
Grape: Marsanne (100%)
Place of origin: Center West Vineyard, Domaine Berrien Estate, Lake Michigan Shore AVA, Berrien Springs, Michigan, USA.
Style: Orange wine.
Vintage: 2013
ABV: 13%
Bottle provided by Nathaniel, via Marshall Wehr. 2016 Marsanne/Rousanne from the same vineyard in the same style currently on the NR menu for $32.
Notes: 18 mos in French Oak, 147 cases produced.
Appearance: Medium amber.
Nose: apple juice, tangerine, sherry, bubblegum.
Palate: Medium bodied and dry. Not nearly as much oxidation as I expected, given the nose. Old cider, apple cores.
Finish: Dry and slightly tannic.
Parting words: I hate to say it but Marsanne is one of my least favorite grapes. Maybe a part of that has been how it has historically treated, resulting in oxidized, nutty, sherry-like flavors and aromas, things I don’t normally enjoy in white wines. I have had Marsanne or Marsanne blends that I have enjoyed, though. For one of those, read my review of Cody Kresta’s Marsanne-Roussanne here.
When I first opened this bottle, and gave the wine a sniff, my heart sank. There it was: sherry. But when the liquid touched my tongue, I was pleasantly surprised. It was all fruit on the palate, apple in particular. Its advanced age was showing a bit as well, but it was still very easy drinking. The sherry in the nose and grip in the finish served as bookends to the still vibrant fruit in the middle! Nathaniel’s choice to produce his this wine in an orange style has added depth and complexity to this wine without making it too weird. That’s a neat trick, and he has me excited to try more Michigan Marsanne in the future!
Parting words: This wine is another in our ongoing 2012 Project, and one of the few white wines participating. Nathaniel Rose isn’t very widely distributed, but bottles do crop up in finer Metro Detroit wine shops. The best way to purchase NR wines is the website or the winery itself. 2013 Nathaniel Rose Marsanne is recommended!
For more information on Nathaniel Rose, check out my 2018 post about my visit to his winery here.
