Kirkland Bottled-in-Bond: Barton 1792

Maker: Barton 1792, Bardstown, Kentucky, USA (Sazerac)

Style: Bonded rye recipe (high malt?) bourbon.

Age: At least 4 y/o.

Proof: 100 (50%) ABV

Michigan State Minimum: $36/1 liter (works out to $27/750 ml)

Appearance: Medium copper.

Nose: Alcohol, five spice powder, dark caramel, velvet.

Palate: Medium-bodied, semi-dry. Caramel, thyme, oak, white pepper.

Finish: Dry and lightly woody.

Mixed: Good with Benedictine, and in a Manhattan.

Parting words: I reviewed the Kirkland Small Batch last summer. Back then I expressed my hope that the bonded would come in soon. It came in a few weeks after that and I got three bottles. Unfortunately I wasn’t able to review it until today, and even more unfortunately, I’m only down to one more bottle.

As one would expect, this is a step up from the Small Batch, though not nearly as much as I had hoped. There’s more complexity and depth, for sure. The cinnamon candy had been replaced with five spice, and there’s more caramel and tannic grip to it. It cleans up nicely compared to its Small Batch sibling, but it’s still not quite what I would call elegant. I would rank it below Very Old Barton and 1792 bonds, but just barely.

Still, for a store brand at this price, it lives up to expectations. It’s good in traditional cocktails, but like the Small Batch, it’s at its best on the rocks. If this one every comes around again, buy it.

Kirkland Bottled-in-Bond: Barton 1792 is recommended.

Final parting note: I took the Pepsi Challenge with this (diluted to 90 proof), Very Old Barton 90 proof, and 1792 Full Proof (diluted to 90 proof) to attempt to determine which mashbill the Kirkland BiB was: VOB or 1792/Kentucky Tavern (supposedly a high malt bourbon). I’m only about 67.924% sure, but I think the current Kirkland BiB was made from the 1792 mashbill. It has a certain spicy, burnt note on the palate and finish that bears a resemblance to it. If I am ever able to get a hold of the Single Barrel (which is in the current price book, but I have not seen on a shelf), I will attempt the same exercise.